It’s confusing because you’re advocating for not voting in the US election while not having the ability to vote in the US election. You’re literally doing foreign interference by not being straightforward with your non-US citizen background. State that so people understand the context you’re speaking from, we have a fuckton of foreign election interference from Russia and Israel and more already.

I have interacted with so many people from outside the US who really want to advocate for our election yet don’t understand the shitass limited choices we have to make to try to make the future better.

I lay out that ethically anyone who supports ending the genocide should vote to reduce harm elsewhere since both options continue the genocide. Not voting dem is also sacrificing trans people and Hispanic people and women which is ethically wrong. Sucks ass, but voting anything other than dem is way worse. So the small effort to tick the box is easily worth that effort.

Be ready for your next UK election, you may need to choose labor instead of green in a tight race so that tory or reform doesn’t take your local seat. Sucks ass, but one less conservative is one more not conservative. With so many parties I can’t believe yous don’t have ranked choice.

Again the only ethical thing is to enable harm reduction. Because voting isn’t a direct extension of your values, but a tiny push for not-fascism. The media may make it a 24/7 thing, but it’s really a 20 minute trip once every 6-12 months if you’re nudging for local change. Once every 4 years if you can’t be arsed to vote local for some reason.

This is a very confusing stance, you’re advocating for not voting while not being a US citizen so you can’t vote??

And you completely misunderstand first past the post voting. You have it in the UK too. It’s how labor got elected, your far right party split the conservative vote. The risk here is that due to the US’ electoral college system a select few states (incl. TX, NC, GA, FL, VA, NV, ME not just the rust belt strip) will decide the election. Thus for those states, someone who could vote must vote for the Dems.

Any possible vote not for the Dems will help the Repubs get closer to clinching those close states, whether it’s no-vote or one of the virtue-signaling 3rd party candidates. (Yes, they only split the vote and are worthless for reducing harm, build 3rd party from local up)

Only one of two candidates will win thanks to FPTP. Both candidates will continue to enable genocide. But one candidate - Trump - will target trans people and will target women and will target minorities at home. So if you are a US citizen who can vote, you do the proper ethical thing: you vote for harm reduction via voting for the Democrats.

A vote is not an endorsement, you don’t have to feel tied to it; it’s an infinitesimal push to a better atmosphere to advocate for the end of the genocide. If Trump is in power left-leaning people will be split putting out fires: trying to keep trans people alive, trying to get women proper healthcare, trying to keep minorities from being rounded up. There will be less bandwidth for stopping the genocide, much less pushing for more progressive change.

In short, the only ethical move is to vote if you’re a US citizen to mitigate harm and improve the progressive landscape to be able to maximalize effort towards ending the genocide. The only ethical move if you’re not a US citizen is to not advocate for not voting for the democrats; might as well be a Russian bot at that point.

Here is a nice summary from https://www.reddit.com/r/firefox/comments/o28yi4/comment/h26mguk/?context=3 :

Privacy Badger is also redundant. It’s useless at best and can do a disservice:

Its local learning is disabled by default. Since they turned off the heuristic, PB just blocks third-party cookies from the yellowlist. Keeping a separate extension to block cookies from ≈800 domains makes no sense when you have uBlock Origin with tens of thousands of domains in filter lists. It’s detectable, that is, it adds extra info to your fingerprint. Even despite the disabled local learning, some of its methods of work are still detectable (function code: API tampering detected). And if you enable local learning, PB can become even more detectable.

Also it sends Global Privacy Control and Do Not Track headers (which even one of its creators called “a failed experiment”) by default, which is useless and only gives an extra bits for fingerprinting.

Basically how privacy badger works is noticeable, but you can turn on local learning to get bespoke ad blocking at the cost of your device being much more easily identifiable. Maybe half-n-half and have privacy badger off on private browsing so you can shop in that mode without Amazon knowing your life’s history as easily

Dipshits don’t even get it’s this based on this painting https://musee-magnin.fr/en/node/19 which is in a French museum, about the gods of Olympus, and includes the lyre you see in the recreation. It’s not the last supper which is in Italy and not in France. Similar framing of course - clearly on purpose - but who cares. What dumbasses, outrage machine go burrr

Mine clicked just after a year :( so it’s waiting to get switches soldered cause I ain’t buying a new one but don’t have the will to do it yet cause I got my ancient G5 still. (I live in America, so doing warranty shit is a hassle, and I surmised it would fail again so I should just fix it now)

That’s what I mean, even e-waste quality razer isn’t double clicking!!

I had to replace the cable on my G5 after it frayed after about a decade, but after that it was back to it. Sorry you lost yours, and I hope you never double click on the G502!

(All the weights gang, build that wrist strength)

Mine is a G5, which looks like it lost the MX518’s sick ass faux metal and instead gets what I can best call “cracked lightning?”. I was too young to figure out mouse buying so the fam’s resident nerd chose that for me - I thank her to this day

One drive does suck nards, but for your double clicking; logitech has been using shitass switches to detect clicks for a while now. They sooner rather than later fail to click once. Only solution I’ve found is to replace the switches (hard mode), or keep using the logitech mouse I have from 2009.

It’s sucks, but you just gotta go for another brand. Even razer doesn’t have such a rampant double click problem.

Logitech enshitified their dominant market position by cheaping on switches - works for them, they sell more mice (if you don’t put together they’re the source of the problem and it’s not a one-off issue).

In incus, I had the same setup of an LCX container with a Docker container inside of it. I passed 1000/1000 to the LXC container but the LXC container’s default root user has a an ID set of 0/0. So I had to pass 0/0 to the Docker container, not 1000/1000 to get the read/write permissions working.

That may fix your issue as it’s basically the same tech, just different automated things implementing the LXC container!

Good to know Proxmox’s bad updates are more pervasive than the latest bad update.

I have been able to install Docker in the LXC containers and pull images in with the normal commands. I do that container-in-container to get effectively rootless docker containers for stuff that I couldn’t figure out how to run rootless. So you don’t even lose out on docker if you’re determined! And as you said incus goes on any OS, you can docker just fine on the base OS of your choice and use incus for specific things!

Try a diff email if you do want one, a friend recently got one via email signup and wait a few weeks. But I do abs agree it fuckin sucks you have to do any of this effort to get one, it is just enabling scalpers

I do use it to hold internet-exposed things in LXC containers to sidestep having to figure out how to not run things as Docker root.

You do not need it for everything, but since it’s not an OS that makes it your everything, that’s ok! Run Docker containers as you need, put internet-exposed ones in an LXC container, put home assistant in a VM because it’s special.

Ah, I was wondering which one you updated and it made your containers inaccessible!

You have to sign up for the in stock notifications, annoying but it works in a delayed fashion. Sad it does enable scalpers.

Incus or Proxmox (e.g., should I shift to Incus LTS or something?)

Incus is way easier to work with than Proxmox, and it sits on your OS of choice instead of being the OS you must use. For home use it’s way easier to use with the web ui, it even has clustering if you want to go hard.

So you can install Incus when you want a VM/LXC container and not have to commit to a VM/LXC container OS from the start.

Also Proxmox free just had a bad update that björked some stuff if you updated when it was live. Proxmox free is rolling and apparently lacks basic sanity checks for updates.

Your budget is really near a https://store.ui.com/us/en/collections/unifi-dream-router/products/udr Unifi dream router. Your family is gonna be way happier with you (0 downtime) and it’ll give you extender options if you ever need it. Unifi is good enough and they update regularly, just disable cloud access stuff and you’re good.

Otherwise you want Opnsense instead of Openwrt. The upgrade process for Openwrt is not automatic, while Opnsense is. Worth it not to have to dote on your router.

And you should get an access point (Unifi something or Tplink Omsomething), wifi is problematic with openwrt and I’m not sure if opensense even lets you do it (haven’t tried).

And you’ll need a switch, dumb or managed, up to you if you want VLANs. The Opnsense box will have just one LAN port, so it requires a switch if you want to plug more than one thing into it. A switch with PoE+ can power the access point directly.

Opnsense needs x64 arch (Intel or AMD CPUs), get a small thin client like a Dell Wyse 5070 extended or HP T730 or that mentioned Fujitsu Futro S720 (its CPU is old tho, you can do better). There may be newer thinclients, you just want a mini PCIe slot to install some Intel gigabit card from eBay with 2 ports. Google power efficient gigabit mini PCIe card - there’s an older model that sucks power and a newer one that doesn’t suck; if you go more than gigabit skip 2.5 on Intel unless you google hard and expect extra power draw. Very limited point to 4 port cards, just go higher gigabit speeds don’t think about multiplexing ports or whatever it is called; and switches switch better than the router can and remove CPU overhead for more actual routing work - 2 port card is the way.

Slap Incus (superior but newer, less guides, LXD is previous name if googling stuff) or Proxmox (good enough, more guides for this) on it, make a VM and pass through the 2 ports of the PCIe cards, slap Opnsense in the VM. Make an LXC container and slap Debian on it and spin up the Unifi controller for your AP. Another container for adguard home or pi hole and you’ve got a box that does the basic nets all in one. The built-in port on the thin client is how you will access the underlying OS, it gets plugged into the switch you’ll have to get. If you got something with 2 gigs of RAM and an AMD Geode/GX or aged Intel Atom CPU I’d just only do Opnsense no hypervisor stuff.

Sorry for the info dump but there’s a lot of angles!

But really, the Unifi dream router is much easier and solves it all-in-one. You need 3 pieces (router, wifi access point, Ethernet switch) for a good experience otherwise.

It looks like regular PSUs are isolated from the mains ground with a transformer. That means that two PSUs’ DC grounds will not be connected. That will likely cause problems for you, as they’ll have to back flow current in places that do NOT expect back flow current to account for the voltage differences between the two ground potentials. Hence it might damage the GPU which is going be the mediator between these two PSUs - and maybe the mobo if everything goes to shit.

Now I am not saying this will be safe, but you may avoid that issue by tying the grounds of the two PSUs together. You still have the issue where if, say, PSU1’s 12V voltage plane meets PSU2’s 12V voltage plane and they’re inevitably not the same exact voltage, you’ll have back flowing current again which is bad because again nothing is designed for that situation. Kind of like if you pair lithium batteries in parallel that aren’t matched, the higher voltage one will back charge the other and they’ll explode.

Old AMD cards can be flashed with any BIOS that says anything. Maybe the card was used for a scam and flashed to say it’s an RTX 2070, it should have a switch to go to its 2nd BIOS near the top left (when slotted in). And if it doesn’t, you can just get its original BIOS off of Techpowerup’s database and flash it with atiflash, also from Techpowerup.

Picture stolen from some Reddit help thread for a red dragon RX 580.

This is assuming that Linux is reading what the card claims it is correctly. Which seems likely, since reading device IDs is a really important feature that probably works nearly perfectly.